Every Wednesday when I was in Catholic grammar school,
we were let out early—noon-ish—so the faculty could prepare for the public
school kids coming in for religious education. On those Wednesdays my mother
and I would go out to lunch. Our favorite place to go to was W.T. Grant—the
five and dime store on Central Avenue in the Scarsdale shopping plaza next to
E.J. Korvettes.
We always ate the same thing—a hotdog which had
rotated for hours on automated metal rollers with sauerkraut and mustard on a toasted
butter-laden top cut bun. It came in a white cardboard sleeve engineered
specifically for a hotdog’s conformation. We sat on spinner-type vinyl and
chrome stools at a gold speckled Formica
counter and were served by a cranky moon-faced Polish woman who wore a pale
pink polyester uniform with a fine black hairnet on her head. She sponged the
countertop before we finished eating as a hint that we should not linger.
The total lack of ambiance made the ambiance perfect.
And the simplicity of the food and nil presentation made it a true culinary
experience. And of course the lacking attention from the server has set the
low-bar for a lifetime. Even with the tip, and two soft drinks, the feast could
not have cost more than a couple of dollars.
Which is why I doubt I will ever go to Serendipity—a restaurant in Manhattan for their $69 haute cuisine hotdog---despite how delicious the concoction
sounds: a prime beef hot dog sautéed in truffle oil with liver pate, white
truffles, and caramelized onions on a pretzel bun. It’s a foodies’ delight.
I am certain it tastes wonderful.
But some things are incomparable. Sometimes you just
can’t mess with the original. Some things can never be new and improved.
The Coca-Cola Company learned that the hard way. In
1985 they decided to improve the formula of Coke—it failed. They will never
make that mistake again.
And while
Serendipity may attract patrons curious enough to try their haute cuisine
hotdog, I doubt they will retain the clientele. Not when people can go to the
corner and get a hotdog steamed in dirty water handed to them from an accented
man who handles money and food without washing his hands in between. In
Karenland, that is haute hotdog cuisine.
No comments:
Post a Comment